Qinghai, June-August 2016: Part 5

by Craig Brelsford
Founder, shanghaibirding.com

INTRODUCTION TO PART 5

Part 5 covers our eighth and final week birding in Qinghai. The featured image above shows dunes and mountain in the remote back country of Wulan County, where I spent most of Week 8.

THE FINAL WEEK

Lake Xiligou
Stunning sunset over Lake Xiligou, 16 Aug. (Craig Brelsford)

The eighth week lasted from from Sun. 14 Aug. to Sun. 21 Aug. 2016. Elaine and I spent most of Week 8 in Wulan County, Haixi Prefecture. Amid stunning scenery, we found Tibetan Wolf, discovered a new location for Przevalski’s Partridge, and around Lake Xiligou had a rare eastern record of Water Rail as well as Qinghai favorites Black-necked Crane, Tibetan Lark, and Henderson’s Ground Jay. The lake held Black-necked Grebe and a noisy super-flock of 4610 Ruddy Shelduck, and Mongolian Goitered Gazelle were in the hills behind. Near Chaka we had Mute Swan, and at a site south of Gonghe-Qiabuqia we noted Dusky Warbler, the 195th and final species of our two-month trip.

WORKING ‘VACATION’ IN WULAN

Wulan
The view from our room at the hotel in Wulan Xiancheng. A new public square adds life to the town. The elevation here is 2950 m (9,680 ft.). The weather in August is warm and dry, a welcome contrast to the cold we had endured the previous week at Hala Lake. (Craig Brelsford)

Elaine and I had spent 15 straight nights in our tent when in the afternoon of Sun. 14 Aug. we pulled into Wūlán Xiàn Hóngxiáng Jiǔdiàn (乌兰县鸿翔酒店, +86 (0) 977-8245666, 36.927295, 98.479888). This comfortable hotel in Wulan Xiancheng would shelter us for the next three nights. We did no more birding on the 14th. The next day, the 15th, a group of Elaine’s former co-workers who happened to be vacationing in the area stopped by our hotel for a big lunch. As in Xining in July, our vacation-within-a-vacation gave us the breather we needed.

Our explorations resumed on Tues. 16 Aug. In the morning, we reconnoitered the north side of Lake Xiligou (36.838594, 98.462896), the little-birded saline lake south of Wulan. The elevation around Lake Xiligou is 2950 m (9,680 ft.), more than 1100 meters (3,610 ft.) lower than chilly Hala Lake, where we had spent the previous week.

marshy area
This is the productive marshy area near Wulan Xiancheng at 36.899263, 98.494709. From these reeds we heard the squeals of Water Rail, and nearby we found Tibetan Lark. (Craig Brelsford)

At a productive marshy area (36.899263, 98.494709) we heard Water Rail calling from the reeds, picked up trip-first Richard’s Pipit, and welcomed back Tibetan Lark to our Qinghai list. The scrub nearby yielded a single Henderson’s Ground Jay.

Despite those successes, approaching Lake Xiligou from the north was not optimal, because the lake is shrinking, and the shrinkage is most pronounced on the north shore. The more remote south shore, by contrast, which we visited in the afternoon, was a revelation.

Mongolian Goitered Gazelle
Mongolian Goitered Gazelle, Lake Xiligou (36.838594, 98.462896), 16 Aug. Goitered Gazelle ranges from the Arabian Peninsula to China. The IUCN lists it as Vulnerable, mainly because of poaching and habitat loss. The latter problem is glaringly acute in Qinghai, where numbers of domestic livestock continue to increase, straining the land and pushing the wild ungulates out. (Craig Brelsford)

The show started while we were still in the semi-desert. We found a black-tailed gazelle that did not bound away like a Tibetan Gazelle, but galloped. It was Mongolian Goitered Gazelle Gazella subgutturosa hilleriana. We found 12.

As we approached the south shore, we heard a roar coming from the water. The source was Ruddy Shelduck, of which we counted 4610. Next in numbers was Brown-headed Gull (625), Black-necked Grebe (275), and Black-winged Stilt (210). 4 bugling Black-necked Crane made up with charisma and grace what they lacked in numbers. Lake Xiligou also yielded a single Greylag Goose, 7 Common Shelduck, 20 Northern Shoveler, 4 Common Pochard, 1 Great Crested Grebe, and 35 Pied Avocet.

Elaine Du
Elaine Du walks through a sea of grass near the south shore of Lake Xiligou (36.838594, 98.462896). In the distance Wulan Xiancheng can be seen. (Craig Brelsford)

Driving out in the dark, we found 3 jerboa, two of them long-eared and presumably either Gobi Jerboa or Mongolian Five-Toed Jerboa, and the third short-eared and long-tailed and presumably Northern Three-toed Jerboa. What fun it is to watch these “jumping mice” (跳鼠) hop across the chaparral.

THE BACK COUNTRY OF WULAN COUNTY

Rusty-necklaced Partridge
We found this Przevalski’s Partridge at a spot (36.826334, 97.965649) 66 km (41 mi.) southwest of Wulan. Endemic to China, Alectoris magna has a compact range that extends from northeastern Qinghai to central Gansu. It is similar to Chukar Partridge A. chukar and is distinguished from it by the chestnut line on the neck. This line gives rise to its other English name, ‘Rusty-necklaced Partridge.’ (Craig Brelsford)

On Wed. 17 Aug. Elaine and I were back on the road, exploring the area south of Wulan and north of Dulan (36.299080, 98.091569). Here Elaine and I found some of the best scenery and most remote country of the Qinghai trip. We drove for hours, not passing a single car. We saw more Przevalski’s Partridge than people, the result of our finding a new site (36.826334, 97.965649) for the species 66 km (41 mi.) southwest of Wulan. The covey contained 13 birds. The site, at elev. 3380 m (11,090 ft.) and with well-vegetated hillsides and steep cliffs for roosting nearby, meets the basic demands of the species and may hold the partridges throughout the year.

Asian Short-toed Lark
Asian Short-toed Lark in semi-desert near Jinzi Lake (36.719109, 97.886371). The four panels show a single individual, a juvenile. Note the stubby bill, the noticeable extension of the primaries beyond the short tertials (Panel 2), and the streaked breast (4). Hume’s Short-toed Lark and Greater Short-toed Lark show tertials overlapping the primary tips, and neither has streaking across the breast. (Craig Brelsford)

On Thurs. 18 Aug., on the way to Jinzi Lake (36.719109, 97.886371), we found a group of Mongolian Goitered Gazelle sprinting across the road. I once again noted the power and speed of these animals. Jinzi Lake is a spring-fed freshwater pond, elev. 2990 m (9,810 ft.). Here we found adult and juvenile Black-necked Grebe and Great Crested Grebe. At the lake we added to our Qinghai 2016 list Eurasian Coot, and later in the desert Tarim Babbler joined the list. We studied carefully the short-toed larks in the marshy areas near the lake. All were Asian Short-toed Lark.

dune
Dunes near our newly discovered Przevalski’s Partridge site (36.826334, 97.965649) in Wulan County, 17 Aug. (Craig Brelsford)

I drove into a sand dune and got stuck. With our handy shovel I dug the car out. I learned two lessons from the incident. First, sand is treacherous; never approach it flippantly. Second, always have tools in your car, especially in remote places. Without that shovel, I would not have been able to dig the car out. I would have been at the mercy of some local—assuming we had found someone. Because we had the shovel, we were able to continue birding after a short delay.

Desert Whitethroat
Desert Whitethroat Sylvia minula margelanica near Jinzi Lake. (Craig Brelsford)

On the morning of Fri. 19 Aug. we found a watering hole in the desert near Jinzi Lake. The pool attracted Desert Whitethroat, a lone Temminck’s Stint, Tarim Babbler, several Isabelline Wheatear, and a Citrine Wagtail.

RESCUING REDSTARTS

Dunes and mountain
Dunes and mountain near Chacha Cun (36.674281, 98.133550). (Craig Brelsford)

On the afternoon of Fri. 19 Aug. Elaine and I were driving through Lianhe Cun (36.622738, 98.233933). We did a double-take. Someone had hung bird netting along the main road, in plain view. The nets were apparently some ill-advised attempt to protect the local crop of wolfberry growing in the gardens behind. Wolfberry or gǒuqǐ (枸杞) is an edible fruit grown in irrigated cropland in Haixi Prefecture.

The scheme was not only callous but also futile, as nearly all the birds could see the netting and were flying over it into the gardens. The only result the netting was having was to kill a few of the birds—and demonstrate the ignorance of the net-setters.

I saw two Black Redstart enmeshed in the netting. They were alive and struggling. In full view of the farmers, who were selling their wolfberry just yards away, I pulled out my knife and cut the redstarts out.

It was quite a job. The netting catches onto any irregular surface—claws, toes, wings, bill. And the redstarts are fragile. If I squeezed the frightened bird even a little too much, it would die in my hand. As I handled one of the beauties, a sleek adult male, the redstart pecked weakly at my fingers.

I set the redstarts free and drove off. I looked at the hard-bitten farmers, their faces wrinkled like raisins after years toiling in the desert sun. I told Elaine: “Poor folks can be materialistic, too—all that cruelty for a measly couple of yuan.”

TIBETAN WOLF

Dulan Mountains
View looking north at Przevalski’s Site in the Dulan Mountains. The point here is 36.460567, 98.503088. The base of Partridge Hill, where Przevalski’s Partridge often gather, is visible to the left of the gully. The wolves were found on the farthest ridge back. Przevalski’s Redstart have been found on the conifer-spotted sunlit hillside in the mid-ground. Pine Bunting often sing from the base of Przevalski’s Hill and in the grass in the foreground. (Craig Brelsford)

Later on Fri. 19 Aug. we found 3 Tibetan Wolf at the well-known Przevalski’s Site (36.457249, 98.502578). With our trip winding down, and steadily making our way east toward Xining and the airport, Elaine and I passed by the Przevalski’s Site and decided to make a lunch stop there. We drove off the G109 and motored through the arid grassland to the base of Partridge Hill, where Przevalski’s Partridge are often found.

After lunch, I said to Elaine, “I’m going to read that slope like a book.” I was talking about the slope that rises about 700 m (2,300 ft.) from the valley floor where we were parked and is about 1500 air-meters away. During our visit in July with Jan-Erik Nilsén, I studied the slope and found Blue Sheep clinging to the nearly vertical wall.

I pulled out my Swarovski ATX-95 and mounted it atop my Manfrotto head. To reduce the effect of the wind, I was seated with the legs of the tripod unextended. As is my habit, I scanned the ridges first.

I found 3 Tibetan Wolf on the ridge. Canus lupus filchneri is a small ssp., and at first I mistook the wolves for foxes. They had black-tipped tails, ocher fur on the back and outer legs, an off-white band on the upper back, and a white muzzle and throat. They moved with ease across the slope.

Battling heat haze, I struggled to keep up with the wolves. I held on for 5 to 10 minutes, during which time I noted their efficient gait, saw them investigating every nook and cranny in their path, and watched them sure-footedly clamber up steep rocks. Elaine took a peek, her first look ever at a wolf.

The wolves disappeared, and strangely enough about 30 minutes later a flock of 40 Blue Sheep, including several lambs, moved into the area. We waited for the wolves to attack, but no attack came.

A major birding location in Dulan County, the Przevalski’s Site is so named because it is reliable for Przevalski’s Partridge and Przevalski’s Redstart. On 19 Aug. the site delivered a covey of 18 partridges, emerging as if on cue from the base of Partridge Hill for a late-afternoon feed. No Przevalski’s Redstart were found, the wheeze of Pine Bunting was no longer heard, and even that little fighter Alpine Leaf Warbler was subdued.

As I stood there watching the now-skulky Alpine Leaf Warbler, so feisty when we arrived in Qinghai in June, it occurred to me that Elaine and I had spent virtually the entire summer in Qinghai.

We continued east, to Chaka (36.791576, 99.078878). At a spot (36.787688, 98.987532) for Henderson’s Ground Jay west of town, now flooded after much recent rain, we added our 194th species of bird for Qinghai 2016: Mute Swan.

THE END

On Sat. 20 Aug. Elaine and I drove from Chaka to a point (36.206372, 100.534206) south of Gonghe-Qiabuqia. There we spent our final night. The next morning, in the scrub near our camp I found Crested Lark and Dusky Warbler, the latter the 195th and final species of the trip.

We drove to Xining Caojiabao Airport, returned the Sportage, and flew back to Shanghai.

PHOTOS

elaine and friends
Elaine Du (L) with friends from Beijing at Wulan, 15 Aug. (Craig Brelsford)
Dusk, Lake Xiligou
Dusk at Lake Xiligou, 16 Aug. (Craig Brelsford)
Goitered Gazelle
Goitered Gazelle near Lake Xiligou. (Craig Brelsford)
Woolly Hare
When approached by this photographer, this Woolly Hare decided to sit tight. From a survival perspective, the strategy paid off. (Craig Brelsford)
Isabelline Wheatear
Isabelline Wheatear are abundant in the semi-deserts of Wulan County. We counted 58 on 18 Aug. and 110 on 19 Aug. (Craig Brelsford)
Isabelline Wheatear
I photographed Isabelline Wheatear from a distance, with mountains, sand dunes, and scrub visible in the background. F/14, 1/400, ISO 1600. (Craig Brelsford)
Wheatear
F/16, 1/320, ISO 800. (Craig Brelsford)
wheatear
F/16, 1/250, ISO 1600. (Craig Brelsford)

INDEX

“Qinghai, June-August 2016” contains an introduction and six parts. This is Part 5.

Introduction: A Summer in Qinghai
Part 1: Weeks 1 & 2
Part 2: Weeks 3 & 4
Part 3: Weeks 5 & 6
Part 4: Week 7
Part 5: Week 8
Part 6: Facts & Figures

This report is part of shanghaibirding.com’s extensive coverage of Qinghai. For the complete index to our posts on Qinghai, please see our page Birding in Qinghai. A list of our most prominent reports on Qinghai is below.

Mammals and Birds of the Tibetan Plateau: Exploring mountains as high as 5100 m (16,730 ft.), our team found 98 species of bird and many key mammals, among them Tibetan Wolf.

Tibetan Bunting Leads Parade of Tibetan Plateau Endemics in Qinghai: shanghaibirding.com founder Craig Brelsford led a three-person team on a 23-day trip to Qinghai.

Qinghai in October: Jesper Hornskov and his team noted 178 species of bird in October, a time of year, Hornskov writes, “when few dedicated birdwatchers visit this unique land.”

In addition to coverage of Qinghai and our core area of Shanghai, shanghaibirding.com has extensive coverage of other areas of China, among them

Yunnan
Xinjiang
Sichuan
Northeast China
Reach us: info@shanghaibirding.com

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Qinghai, June-August 2016: Facts & Figures

by Craig Brelsford
Founder, shanghaibirding.com

INTRODUCTION TO PART 6

Part 6 contains our list of the major places our team visited and a bibliography.

One of our most memorable ticks during our summer in Qinghai was Tibetan Sandgrouse (above), found at Hala Lake (38.205028, 97.520028) on 10 Aug. 2016.

LIST OF PLACE NAMES

— Many places in Qinghai have Tibetan or Mongolian names. For simplicity I have written place names only in English, simplified Chinese, and Pinyin.

— In the system used here, in English all eight jurisdictions in Qinghai immediately below the provincial level are called “prefectures” (州), even though in two cases (Haidong and Xining) the word 市 (“city”) is used to designate the administrative area. Likewise, all jurisdictions immediately below the prefectural level are called “counties” (县), even though in some cases 市 is used to designate those administrative areas.

Alake Lake: see Lake Alake.

Babao River (Bābǎo Hé [八宝河]): tributary of Heihe River. Confluence at Qinghai-Gansu border in Qilian County.

Babao Zhen (Bābǎo Zhèn [八宝镇]): see Qilian Xiancheng.

Baizha Nature Reserve (Báizhā Sēnlín Zìrán Bǎohùqū [白扎森林自然保护区]): protected area Nangqian County, Yushu Prefecture. Junction of G214 & X832 at 31.966314, 96.535097. On some maps, X832 is called “Ranniang Section” (Ránniáng Duàn [然娘段]). This is the road that leads toward the nature reserve. At another turnoff (31.964250, 96.573340), bear right, leaving Ranniang Section, & continue on to the reserve. Gate at 31.882305, 96.556738. Elev. at gate is 3910 m (12,840 ft.).

Banjie Gou (Bànjié Gōu [半截沟]): village Menyuan County, Haibei Prefecture. 37.681962, 101.240959.

Bayankala Pass (Bāyánkālā Shānkǒu [巴颜喀拉山口]): pass on G214 near Qinghai-Sichuan border. Elev.: 4824 m (15,823 ft.). 34.114476, 97.661992.

Chacha Cun (Cháchá Cūn [查查村]): village Dulan County. 36.674281, 98.133550.

Chaka (Chákǎ Zhèn [茶卡镇]): town & tourist center Wulan County, Haixi Prefecture. 36.791576, 99.078878.

Chaka Salt Lake (Chákǎ Yánhú [茶卡盐湖]). 36.702074, 99.112364.

Chenduo County (Chènduō Xiàn [称多县]): sub-prefectural administrative area Yushu Prefecture.

Chengdong District (Chéngdōng Qū [城东区]): district Xining Prefecture. Along with other nearby urbanized districts, commonly referred to as Xining. See also Chengxi District, Chengzhong District.

Chengxi District (Chéngxī Qū [城西区]): district Xining Prefecture. Along with other nearby urbanized districts, commonly refereed to as Xining. See also Chengdong District, Chengzhong District.

Chengzhong District (Chéngzhōng Qū [城中区]): district Xining Prefecture & heart of Xining conurbation. This district & three adjacent districts are commonly referred to as Xining. See also Chengdong District, Chengxi District.

Dagela Pass (Dàgélā Shān [大格拉山]): ridge dividing Yangtze & Mekong river systems in Yushu Prefecture. Reachable via X308. Elev.: 4752 m (15,587 ft.). 32.514573, 97.209993.

Dashui Qiao (Dàshuǐ Qiáo [大水桥]): village Gonghe County between Chaka & Heimahe. 36.691347, 99.457542.

Dashui Reservoir (Dàshuǐ Shuǐkù [大水水库]): dam & artificial lake near Dashui Qiao. 36.716292, 99.471655.

Datong River (Dàtōng Hé [大通河]): river N Qinghai & W Gansu. Tributary of Huangshui River. Part of Yellow River system.

Delingha County (Délìnghā Shì [德令哈市]) sub-prefectural administrative area Haixi Prefecture. Prefectural seat of Haixi Prefecture. Officially, Delingha “City.”

Dipanzi Village (Dìpánzi Cūn [地盘子村]): settlement Qilian County, Haibei Prefecture. Riparian forest of Small-leaf Poplar is across Heihe River at 38.212130, 100.160214.

Donggeicuona Lake: see Lake Donggeicuona.

Dongguan Mosque (Xīníng Shì Dōngguān Qīngzhēn Dàsì [西宁市东关清真大寺]): largest mosque in Qinghai. Built 1380. Located in Chengdong District, Xining. 36.615301, 101.797987.

Dulan County (Dūlán Xiàn [都兰县]): sub-prefectural administrative area Haixi Prefecture.

Dunhuang (Dūnhuáng Shì [敦煌市]): sub-prefectural administrative area W Gansu.

Ela Pass (Èlā Shānkǒu [鄂拉山口]): elev. 4499 m (14,757 ft.). 35.497608, 99.511449.

Eling Lake (Èlíng Hú [鄂陵湖]). One of the sources of Yellow River, in Maduo County, Guoluo Prefecture. Also known as Ngoring Lake. 34.902685, 97.709949.

Ga’er Monastery (Gǎěr Sì [尕尔寺]): Buddhist institution of worship in Nangqian County, Yushu Prefecture. 31.829966, 96.487758.

Gahai Lake (Gǎ Hǎi [尕海]): freshwater lake Delingha County, Haixi Prefecture. Elev.: 2850 m (9,350 ft.). 37.128349, 97.551656.

Galaga Pass (Gǎlāgǎ Yākǒu [尕拉尕垭口]): Elev.: 4493 m (14,737 ft.).

Gangze Wujie (Gǎngzé Wújié [岗则吾结]): peak South Shule Mountains, Tianjun County, Haixi Prefecture, Qinghai. At 5808 masl (19,050 ft.) highest peak in South Shule Mountains & Qilian Mountains. On some maps called Tuanjie Feng (Tuánjié Fēng [团结峰]). 38.503719, 97.718419.

Gansu (Gānsù Shěng [甘肃省]): province NW China bordering Qinghai to N & E. Area: 425,800 sq. km (164,400 sq. mi.).

Gonghe: word that can be used for Gonghe County & especially for Qiabuqia.

Gonghe County (Gònghé Xiàn [共和县]): sub-prefectural administrative area Hainan Prefecture.

Gouhua (Gōuhuā [沟花]): valley ca. 30 km W of Huashixia in Dulan County, Haixi Prefecture. Elev.: 3990 m (13,090 ft.).

Guoluo Prefecture (Guǒluò Zàngzú Zìzhìzhōu [果洛藏族自治州]): sub-provincial administrative area SE Qinghai. Area: 76,312 sq. km (29,464 sq. mi.). Full name: Guoluo Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture. Guoluo sometimes spelled “Golog.”

Greater Wild Horse Ridge (Dà Yěmǎ Lǐng [大野马岭]): mtn. Maduo County. Elev.: 4326 m (14,189 ft.). 34.658282, 98.228252.

Gyêgu: see Jiegu.

Haibei Prefecture (Hǎiběi Zàngzú Zìzhì Zhōu [海北藏族自治州]): sub-provincial administrative area NE Qinghai. Area: 39,354 sq. km (15,195 sq. mi.). Full name: Haibei Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture.

Haidong Prefecture (Hǎidōng Shì [海东市]): sub-provincial administrative area E Qinghai. Area: 12,810 sq. km (4,950 sq. mi.). Officially a “(prefectural-level) city.”

Hainan Prefecture (Hǎinán Zàngzú Zìzhìzhōu [海南藏族自治州]): sub-provincial administrative area E Qinghai. Area: 45,895 sq. km (17,720 sq. mi.). Full name: Hainan Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture.

Haixi Prefecture (Hǎixī Měnggǔzú Zàngzú Zìzhì Zhōu [海西蒙古族藏族自治州]): sub-provincial administrative area occupying all of NW & NC Qinghai & a portion of SW Qinghai. Area: 325,785 sq. km (125,786 sq. mi.). Area (comparative): slightly smaller than Norway; slightly larger than New Mexico. Largest prefecture in Qinghai. Pop.: 490,000. Prefectural seat: Delingha. Full name: Haixi Mongol and Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture.

Hala Lake (Hālā Hú [哈拉湖]): inland sea N Qinghai in Haixi Prefecture. Second-largest lake in Qinghai. Area: 607 sq. km (234 sq. mi.). Elevation: 4077 m (13,373 ft.). 38.267875, 97.575430.

Hedong (Hédōng [河东]): administrative area Delingha County. Seat of Haixi Prefecture & Delingha County. Along with Hexi forms urbanized area of Delingha County, & the two areas are most commonly referred to as “Delingha.”

Heihe River (Hēi Hé [黑河]): river NW China rising on N side of Qilian Mountains in Gansu, flowing through Haibei Prefecture in Qinghai, & returning to Gansu, where it runs through Hexi Corridor before drying up in Gobi Desert in W Inner Mongolia. Length: 630 km (391 mi.). Lower reaches known as Ruo Shui (Ruò Shuǐ [弱水]).

Heihe Xiang (Hēihé Xiāng [黑河乡]): village Maduo County. 34.600899, 98.268220.

Heimahe (Hēimǎhé Xiāng [黑马河乡]): village SW shore of Qinghai Lake in Gonghe County. Tourism center. 36.729239, 99.779524.

Hexi (Héxī [河西]): administrative area Delingha County. Along with Hedong forms urbanized area of Delingha County, & the two areas are most commonly referred to as “Delingha.”

Hexi Corridor (Héxī Zǒuláng [河西走廊]): historical trading route Gansu. Bordered S by Qilian Mtns. & Tibetan Plateau & N by Gobi Desert.

Himalayan Plateau: see Tibetan Plateau.

Huang He Xiang (Huáng Hé Xiāng [黄河乡]): village Maduo County. 34.600672, 98.268468.

Huangshui River (Huángshuǐ Hé [湟水河]): largest tributary of Yellow River. Runs through Xining.

Huashixia (Huāshíxiá [花石峡]): village Maduo County on G214. 35.101275, 98.860780.

Huzhu County (Hùzhù Tǔzú Zìzhìxiàn [互助土族自治县]): sub-prefectural administrative area Haidong Prefecture. Full name: Huzhu Tu Autonomous County.

Jiabo Hot Spring (Jiǎbō Wēnquán [甲波温泉]): thermal spring Qilian County on S204. Elev. 3790 m (12,430 ft.). 38.790355, 98.665485.

Jiading (Jiādìng Zhèn [加定镇]): tourist center Huzhu County on Datong River & Qinghai-Gansu border. 36.951698, 102.494353.

Jiangxi Huimu Vocational Training School (Yùshù Shì Jiāngxī Huìmù Zhíyè Péixùn Xuéxiào [玉树市江西惠牧职业培训学校]): institution specializing in teaching Buddhist-style painting. Near Jiangxi Forest Management Area in Nangqian County. Elev. 3600 m (11,810 ft.). 32.076395, 97.063995.

Jiangxi Forest Management Area (Jiāngxī Línchǎng [江西林场]): forestry center & series of villages (“Jiangxi Village”), Nangqian County. 32.076777, 97.009417.

Jiegu (Jiégǔ Zhèn [结古镇]): urbanized area Yushu County, seat of Yushu County & Yushu Prefecture. Pop.: 56,800. Elev.: 3700 m (12,140 ft.). Commonly referred to as Yushu. 33.002242, 96.978488.

Jinzi Lake (Jīnzi Hǎi [金子海]): freshwater lake Wulan County, Haixi Prefecture. Elev.: 2990 m (9,810 ft.). 36.719109, 97.886371.

Kanda Gorge: see Kanda Mountains.

Kanda Mountains (Kǎndá Shān [坎达山]): high country Nangqian County. Elev. at mouth of Kanda Gorge, near Mekong/Zaqu River (32.277059, 96.485171): 3670 m (12,040 ft.). Elev. Kanda Pass (32.314561, 96.624807): 4680 m (15,350 ft.). Junction of G214 & road leading to Kanda Mountains: 32.315911, 96.454165.

Kanda Nunnery: religious institution Kanda Gorge. Reliable site for Tibetan Partridge & Tibetan Babax. Elev.: 3910 m (12,830 ft.). 32.291641, 96.512173.

Kanda Pass: see Kanda Mountains.

Lake Alake (Ālākè Hú [阿拉克湖]): lake Dulan County, Haixi Prefecture. Elev.: 4749 m (15,577 ft.). 35.568917, 97.128349.

Lake Donggeicuona (Dōnggěicuònà Hú [冬给错纳湖]): lake Maduo County, Guoluo Prefecture. Elev.: 3950 m (12,960 ft.). 35.290072, 98.537098.

Lake Xiligou (Xīlǐgōu Hú [希里沟湖]): saline lake Wulan County, Haixi Prefecture. Elev.: 2950 m (9,680 ft.). 36.838594, 98.462896.

Lamaozhi Siyuan (Lāmáozhì Sìyuàn [拉毛志寺院])

Lianhe Cun (Liánhé Cūn [联合村]): village Dulan County, Haixi Prefecture. 36.627763, 98.235107.

Machali (Mǎchálǐ Zhèn [玛查理镇]): town W Maduo County. Commonly referred to as Maduo. 34.911354, 98.211208.

Madoi County: see Maduo County.

Maduo (Mǎduō [玛多]): word that can be used for Maduo County & especially for Machali.

Maduo County (Mǎduō Xiàn [玛多县]): sub-prefectural administrative area W Guoluo Prefecture. Area: 25,000 sq. km (9,700 sq. mi.). Also known as Madoi County.

Maozhuang (Máozhuāng Xiāng [毛庄乡]): village Nangqian County. 32.266550, 96.824579.

Mekong River: seventh-longest river in Asia, 12th in world. Rises in Qinghai. Upper reaches also known as Zaqu River.

Menggu Bao (Měnggǔ Bāo [蒙古包]): “Menggu bao” means yurt, or circular tent in the style of the Mongolians. Here, the name refers to the area for tourists at the northernmost point on Delingha-Hala road on S shore of Hala Lake.

Menyuan County (Ményuán Huízú Zìzhìxiàn [门源回族自治县]): sub-prefectural administrative area Haibei Prefecture.

Mole Zhen (Mòlè Zhèn [默勒镇]): town Qilian County. 37.716626, 100.579661.

Nanchuan River (Nánchuān Hé [南川河]): tributary of Huangshui River, which it meets in Xining.

Nangqên County: see Nangqian County.

Nangqian (Nángqiān [囊谦]): word that can be used for Nangqian County & especially for Xiangda.

Nangqian County (Nángqiān Xiàn [囊谦县]): sub-prefectural administrative area Yushu Prefecture. Area: 11,539 sq. km (4,455 sq. mi.). Pop: 57,000. Contains southernmost point in Qinghai & borders Tibet. Once semi-independent kingdom. Also known as Nangqên County.

Nanshan: see Qilian Mountains.

Ngoring Lake: see Eling Lake.

Przevalski’s Site: birding area Dulan Mountains, Dulan County, Haixi Prefecture. So called because Przevalski’s Partridge & Przevalski’s Redstart have been found there. Turnoff to birding area is at KM 2335.5 on G109. Birding area at 36.457249, 98.502578.

Qabqa: see Qiabuqia.

Qiabuqia (Qiàbǔqià Zhèn [恰卜恰镇]): urbanized area Gonghe County, seat of Gonghe County & Hainan Prefecture. Commonly referred to as Gonghe. 36.275266, 100.624701.

Qilian County (Qílián Xiàn [祁连县]): sub-prefectural administrative area Haibei Prefecture. Area: 15,610 sq. km (6,027 sq. mi.).

Qilian Mountains (Qílián Shān [祁连山]): range N China forming part of border between Qinghai & Gansu. Because range forms S boundary of Hexi Corridor, also known as Southern Mountains, or Nanshan (Nánshān [南山]).

Qilian Xiancheng (Qílián Xiànchéng [祁连县城]): informal & more commonly used name for Babao Zhen, administrative center of Qilian County in Haibei Prefecture. 38.176712, 100.247371.

Map of Qinghai with the eight prefectural-level divisions in white. Last week, our team covered the 800 km from Yushu-Jiegu to Xining (both marked in black). Map courtesy Wikipedia.
Map of Qinghai with the eight prefectural-level divisions in white. (Wikipedia/Craig Brelsford)

Qinghai (Qīnghǎi Shěng [青海省]): province NW China. Area: 720,000 sq. km (278,000 sq. mi.). Area (comparative): three times larger than United Kingdom; slightly larger than Texas. Pop.: 5.6 million.

Qinghai Lake (Qīnghǎi Hú [青海湖]): largest lake in Qinghai. 36.877808, 100.228673.

Qinghai-Tibet Plateau: see Tibetan Plateau.

Qingshizui (Qīngshízuǐ Zhèn [青石嘴镇]): town Menyuan County, Haibei Prefecture. 37.474644, 101.397441.

Qingshuihe (Qīngshuǐhé [清水河]): town on G214 S of Bayankala Pass. Elev.: 4270 m (14,010 ft.). 33.804499, 97.141026.

Rubber Mountain Pass (Xiàngpí Shān [橡皮山]): mountain crossing 22 km (13.7 mi.) W of Heimahe on G109. Elev.: 3817 m (12,520 ft.). 36.754213, 99.606705.

Ruo Shui: see Heihe River.

Shule River (Shūlè Hé [疏勒河]): river NW China rising in Haibei Prefecture, Qinghai, flowing through W Gansu, & emptying (historically) in Lop Nur in Xinjiang. Length: 905 km (562 mi.). Also known as Changma River (Chāngmǎ Hé [昌马河]).

Sàrìlāmǎzhū (萨日拉玛珠)

Shanglaxiu (Shànglāxiù [上拉秀]): town Yushu County.

Sichuan (Sìchuān Shěng [四川省]): province SW China bordering Qinghai to SE. Area: 485,000 sq. km (187,400 sq. mi.).

South Shule Mountains (Shūlè Nánshān [疏勒南山]): sub-range of Qilian Mountains N of Hala Lake, Haixi Prefecture.

South Tuole Mountains (Tuōlè Nánshān [拖勒南山]): sub-range Qilian Mountains in N Qinghai & W Gansu. Range runs between Yanglong & Suli & forms part of border between Haibei & Haixi prefectures. On some maps, 拖勒 written 拖来.

Subei County (Sùběi Měnggǔzú Zìzhì Xiàn [肃北蒙古族自治县]): sub-prefectural administrative area W Gansu, bordering Qinghai.

Suli (Sūlǐ Xiāng [苏里乡]): village on Shule River in Tianjun County, Haixi Prefecture. 38.702633, 98.026018.

Tiegai Xiang (Tiěgài Xiāng [铁盖乡]): village Gonghe County, Hainan Prefecture. 35.989249, 100.194396.

Tianjun County (Tiānjùn Xiàn [天峻县]): sub-prefectural administrative area Haixi Prefecture.

Tibet (Xīzàng Zìzhìqū [西藏自治区]): provincial-level entity SW China bordering Qinghai to S. Area: 1,228,400 sq. km (474,300 sq. mi.). Full name: Tibet Autonomous Region.

Tibetan Plateau (Qīng Zàng Gāoyuán [青藏高原]): vast elevated plateau C Asia encompassing much of Qinghai. Highest & largest plateau on Earth. Contains headwaters of several major rivers, among them Yangtze River, Yellow River, & Mekong River. Chinese name translates as “Qinghai-Tibet Plateau.” Also known as Himalayan Plateau.

Tit-Warbler Mountain: birding spot near Heimahe containing much good scrub. To reach it, take the G109 from Heimahe to a dirt road near KM 2187 (36.782112, 99.675814). Drive to the end of this dirt road at 36.766994, 99.667711. Peak is at 36.758683, 99.663055. Elevation at top is 3620 m (11,870 ft.).

Tongtian River (Tōngtiān Hé [通天河]): another name for upper Yangtze River.

Tuanjie Feng (Tuánjié Fēng [团结峰]): see Gangze Wujie.

Tuole River ([拖勒河]): tributary of Heihe River. On some maps, 拖勒 written 拖来.

Ulan County: see Wulan County.

Wenquan (Wēnquán [温泉]): town Xinghai County, Hainan Prefecture.

Wulan County (Wūlán Xiàn [乌兰县]): sub-prefectural administrative area Haixi Prefecture. Also known as Ulan County. Area: 10,784 sq. km (4,164 sq. mi.)

Xiangda (Xiāngdá Zhèn [香达镇]): administrative center of Nangqian County. Commonly referred to as Nangqian. 32.202992, 96.475617.

Xiangride (Xiāngrìdé [香日德]): town Dulan County, Haixi Prefecture. 35.993651, 97.894235.

Xiangride River: watercourse Dulan County, Haixi Prefecture.

Xiao Sumang Xiang (Xiǎo Sūmǎng Xiāng [小苏莽乡]): village Yushu County near Qinghai-Tibet border. 32.347744, 97.252561.

Xinghai County (Xīnghǎi Xiàn [兴海县]): county SW Hainan Prefecture.

Xingxing Hai (Xīngxīng Hǎi [星星海]): lake Maduo County.

Xining (Xīníng [西宁]): word that can be used to refer to all of Xining Prefecture but most commonly used to describe the four urbanized districts centered around Chengzhong.

Xining Caojiabao Airport (Xīníng Cáojiābǎo Jīchǎng [西宁曹家堡机场]): airport Huzhu County, Haidong Prefecture, 30 km (19 mi.) E of downtown Xining. IATA: XNN. 36.527923, 102.040889.

Xining Prefecture (Xīníng Shì [西宁市]): sub-provincial administrative area NE Qinghai. Capital of Qinghai & most populous city on Tibetan Plateau. Area: 7372 sq. km (2,846 sq. mi.). Officially a “(prefectural-level) city.”

Yangkang Xiang (Yángkāng Xiāng [阳康乡]): village E of Hala Lake in Tianjun County, Haixi Prefecture. 37.675509, 98.635267.

Yanglong Xiang (Yānglóng Xiāng [央隆乡]): village W Haibei Prefecture, on the S204. 38.816483, 98.415873.

Yangtze River (Cháng Jiāng [长江]): longest river in Asia, third-longest in world. Rises in Qinghai.

Yankou Shan (Yànkǒu Shān [雁口山]): mtn. N of Yushu-Jiegu. Some slopes covered with primary high-alpine scrub. Elev.: 4458 m (14,622 ft.). 33.199406, 97.466606.

Yellow River (Huáng Hé [黄河]): third-longest river in Asia, sixth-longest in world. Rises in Qinghai.

Yeniu Gou (Yěniú Gōu [野牛沟]): village Qilian County. 38.457395, 99.542667.

Yong’an River (Yǒng’ān Hé [永安河]): river Haibei Prefecture.

Yushu Batang Airport (Yùshù Bātáng Jīchǎng [玉树巴塘机场]): airport Yushu Prefecture 18 km (11 mi.) S of Yushu-Jiegu. Elev. 3890 m (12,760 ft.). Eighth-highest civilian airport in world. 32.824982, 97.124989.

Yushu (Yùshù [玉树]): word that can be used to refer to Yushu Prefecture, to Yushu County, or most commonly to Jiegu.

Yushu County (Yùshù Shì [玉树市]): sub-prefectural administrative area Yushu Prefecture. County seat: Yushu-Jiegu. Area: 13,462 sq. km (5,198 sq. mi.). Pop.: 120,447. Officially, Yushu “City.”

Map of Qinghai showing Yushu Prefecture in yellow and Yushu County in pink. Courtesy Wikipedia.
Map of Qinghai showing Yushu Prefecture in yellow and Yushu County in pink. (Wikipedia)

Yushu Prefecture (Yùshù Zàngzú Zìzhìzhōu [玉树藏族自治州]): sub-provincial administrative area Qinghai. Area: 188,794 sq. km (72,894 sq. mi.). Area (comparative): half the size of Germany; slightly larger than North Dakota. Second-largest prefecture in Qinghai. Covers most of S Qinghai. Pop.: 296,000. Prefectural seat: Yushu-Jiegu. Full name: Yushu Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture.

Zaqu River (Zāqū [扎曲]): name for upper reaches of Mekong River in Qinghai.

Zhalong Gou Scenic Area (Qīnghǎi Shěng Hùzhù Běishān Zhālóng Gōu Jǐngqū [青海省互助北山扎龙沟景区]): protected area Huzhu County, Haidong Prefecture. 36.792287, 102.460685.

Ziqu River (Ziqū [子曲]): tributary of Zaqu River. Flows through Nangqian County.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Brazil, Mark. Birds of East Asia. Princeton University Press. Consulted in Shanghai.

del Hoyo, Josep, et al., eds. The Handbook of the Birds of the World. Lynx Edicions.

Grimmett, Richard, Carol Inskipp, and Tim Inskipp. Birds of the Indian Subcontinent. Christopher Helm. One of three field guides we had with us in Qinghai, the others being MacKinnon’s a Field Guide to the Birds of China and the Collins Bird Guide.

Kennerley, Peter & David Pearson. Reed and Bush Warblers. Christopher Helm. Consulted at home.

Lynx Edicions. The Internet Bird Collection. ibc.lynxeds.com

MacKinnon, John & Karen Phillipps. A Field Guide to the Birds of China. Oxford University Press. Along with the Collins Bird Guide and Birds of the Indian Subcontinent, one of the field guides we took with us to Qinghai.

Oriental Bird Club. Oriental Bird Images. orientalbirdimages.org.

Smith, Andrew T. & Yan Xie, eds. Mammals of China. Princeton University Press.

Mullarney, Killian, Lars Svensson, Dan Zetterström, Peter Grant. Collins Bird Guide: The Most Complete Guide to the Birds of Britain and Europe. HarperCollins. Useful even in Qinghai. One of the three field guides we took to Qinghai (the others being A Field Guide to the Birds of China and Birds of the Indian Subcontinent).

Xeno-Canto Foundation. Xeno-Canto: Bird Sounds from Around the World. xeno-canto.org.

EQUIPMENT

Cameras: Nikon D3S; for landscapes, Apple iPad, Apple iPhone 4S, and Apple iPhone 6
Lens: Nikon VR 600mm F/4G
Sound recorder: Olympus DM-650
Binoculars: Swarovski EL 8 x 32 (Craig), Zeiss Conquest HD 8 x 42 (Elaine)
Spotting scope: Swarovski ATX-95

INDEX

“Qinghai, June-August 2016” contains an introduction and six parts. This is Part 6.

Introduction: A Summer in Qinghai
Part 1: Weeks 1 & 2
Part 2: Weeks 3 & 4
Part 3: Weeks 5 & 6
Part 4: Week 7
Part 5: Week 8
Part 6: Facts & Figures

This report is part of shanghaibirding.com’s extensive coverage of Qinghai. For the complete index to our posts on Qinghai, please see our page Birding in Qinghai. A list of our most prominent reports on Qinghai is below.

Mammals and Birds of the Tibetan Plateau: Exploring mountains as high as 5100 m (16,730 ft.), our team found 98 species of bird and many key mammals, among them Tibetan Wolf.

Tibetan Bunting Leads Parade of Tibetan Plateau Endemics in Qinghai: shanghaibirding.com founder Craig Brelsford led a three-person team on a 23-day trip to Qinghai.

Qinghai in October: Jesper Hornskov and his team noted 178 species of bird in October, a time of year, Hornskov writes, “when few dedicated birdwatchers visit this unique land.”

In addition to coverage of Qinghai and our core area of Shanghai, shanghaibirding.com has extensive coverage of other areas of China, among them

Yunnan
Xinjiang
Sichuan
Northeast China
Reach us: info@shanghaibirding.com

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Tibetan Lynx, Kanda Mountain, Qinghai

by Craig Brelsford
Founder, shanghaibirding.com

Tibetan Lynx Lynx lynx isabellinus, 14 July, Yushu Prefecture, Qinghai, China. Sunset. With me at the wheel, my birding partners and I are driving up the Kanda Mountain road. I look left and see the lynx. It is motionless, looking at us. What luck! What a stunning sight!

The cat slinks away
The cat slinks away. The lynx gave us a few seconds of its time—and a memory to last forever. (Craig Brelsford)

“Wild cat!” I squeak to my partners, hitting the brakes and reaching for my camera. The lynx posed only a moment, and I got these images. Then it trotted away.

I waited nearly half a century to glimpse a lynx. My partners, wife Elaine Du and Beijing-based Swedish birder Jan-Erik Nilsén, also had never seen a lynx. This is the Central Asian subspecies of Eurasian Lynx, also known as Himalayan Lynx and Turkestan Lynx. The elevation here is 4550 m (14,920 ft.).

Kanda Mountain
Kanda Mountain is in Nangqian County, Yushu Prefecture, south-central Qinghai. Few places offer so enticing a combination of stunning scenery and good birding. I took this photo the morning after we saw the lynx near the place where the encounter occurred. Near this point one can find White Eared Pheasant, Tibetan Partridge, Tibetan Babax, and Tibetan Bunting. We found Blue Sheep on the slopes above. Some of the local Tibetans told us that Snow Leopard still roam the area. (Craig Brelsford)

My settings were off; I had just photographed a White-browed Tit-Warbler at close range in bright sunlight. Nikon D3S, 600 mm F/4, 1/20, F/10, ISO 640. “Shoot first, adjust later.” The lynx wasn’t going to wait. Photoshop can bail you out, to a point. I did manage to lower my shutter speed while shooting.

I’m writing you from Xining, capital of Qinghai. Elaine and I have been birding Qinghai since 26 June; we have just begun our fifth week in this province. Jan-Erik joined us for two weeks. On Sun. 24 July we dropped our partner off at Xining Airport. Along with goodbyes and thanks, the word “lynx” was on everyone’s lips.
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