Vietnam shares with China an often contentious history, a border of 1450 km (901 mi.), the South China-Vietnam Subtropical Evergreen Forest Region, and more than 500 bird species, among them (clockwise from L) Red-headed Trogon, Black-headed Sibia, Velvet-fronted Nuthatch, Puff-throated Babbler, and Burmese Shrike. Last November, shanghaibirding.com contributor Mark Havenhand found these species and dozens more on a trip that covered Vietnam’s southern lowlands, Central Highlands, and mountainous north. — Craig Brelsford
by Mark Havenhand
for shanghaibirding.com
It’s a short flight from buttoned-up Singapore to free-wheeling Ho Chi Minh City, and after a slow-of-slow immigration process it’s good that cheap hotels are a mere 500 m walk away. At 5 a.m. sharp, Tim, my guide, is there with self-brewed coffee ready to roll. It’s a three-hour drive to the first site, near Tan Phu on the Dalat road, primary forest steamy at close to sea level. First off in a makeshift hide the commom bulbul—Ochraceous Bulbul—is a lifer, looking very similar to Puff-throated Bulbul, familiar from Yunnan. Common by the hide were also Abbott’s Babbler, Puff-throated Babbler, and Siberian Blue Robin. The access road was a narrow tarmac strip with only the odd motorbike passing. The tall trees yielded many great species. Among the lifers for me were Orange-breasted Trogon and Red-headed Trogon, Heart-spotted Woodpecker, Banded Broadbill, Brown-rumped Minivet, and Maroon-bellied Sunbird. We spent the next two days combing the woods and ticked some great birds—Bar-bellied Pitta, Blue-rumped Pitta, Blue-winged Pitta, Rusty-naped Pitta, Germain’s Swiftlet, Blue-bearded Bee-eater, White-crested Laughingthrush, Orange-headed Thrush, Scaly-crowned Babbler, Orange-necked Partridge, Slaty-legged Crake (came to the hide!), Blue-eared Kingfisher, Black-backed Dwarf Kingfisher, and Banded Kingfisher (the latter lives in tall trees, not by rivers). A noteworthy night-birding (7–10 p.m.) yielded Blyth’s Frogmouth, Collared Scops Owl, Spot-bellied Eagle-Owl, Asian Barred Owlet, and Brown Wood Owl. The climate in mid-November was cool at night, hot and humid at midday.
Seeking a cooler vibe, we headed to the Central Highlands, specifically Dalat, a thriving hill station at an altitude of 1500 m (4,920 ft.). The city spreads alarmingly in all directions—busy busy with loads of traffic. It was our home for three days, but luckily Tim knows where to go. En route we stopped for Burmese Shrike and Annam (Brown) Prinia with a pair of Mountain Imperial Pigeon flying over and lurking White-browed Scimitar Babbler. The sites near Dalat were within a 30-minute drive of “downtown.” A good guide is essential—here was mostly birding-by-walking, and it takes a good eye to spot anything in the tropical forest. We had some bumper days! Grey-crowned Crocias yielded to patient waiting as they returned to roost, and we had Black-headed Sibia, Yellow-billed Nuthatch, White-tailed Robin, and Bar-backed Partridge, and as the sun set Rufous-throated Partridge, White-browed Shrike-babbler, Rufous-backed Sibia, Vietnamese Greenfinch, Necklaced Barbet, Blue Pitta, Black-hooded Laughingthrush, and Changeable Hawk-Eagle.
Probably clear from the report and generalising wildly: the areas I visited in November were thick with birds—I met only one other group of disgruntled birders complaining they had seen nothing and what they had seen was flying away. I saw no bird nets and only one man aiming to catch birds (bulbuls, I think) for the trade. So I took a break in rainy Danang to visit the archeological museum and prepare for the second half … those who wish to see the devastation of mass tourism can visit Hoi An.
Hanoi airport had none of the immigration hassles of Ho Chi Minh; I found it noteworthy that the immigration officer was surprised I had troubled myself to get a visa. Hanoi for a day was enough. The Botanic Garden provided some binocular practice on old China friends: Oriental Magpie-Robin, Manchurian Bush Warbler, Common Tailorbird, and Asian Tit. Next were some trying days in which I visited three “national parks,” each within about 100 km or 60 miles of Hanoi. Nobody had told me these parks are 110% to do with tourism and very little to do with wildlife conservation. Hard to recommend any of them, but … still they yielded good birds. First up: Cuc Phuong. First impression: very few birds, hardly any bigger than a warbler. Among the most readily noted were Yellow-browed Warbler, Eastern Crowned Warbler, and Pale-legged Leaf Warbler. Purple-naped Spiderhunter lifted the bar, which was raised further by a bush-level Russet Bush Warbler, Bianchi’s Warbler, and Rufous-tailed Robin. The day was finally saved by a long stake-out of Annam Limestone Babbler, which took an hour of phishing to tease out of the limestone cracks in a thick forest area—so thick that at least 200 people walking past (I am not joking) failed to spot us. Next day a pre-dawn start paid off with Scaly-breasted Partridge, White-browed Piculet, Bay Woodpecker, and Red-collared Woodpecker. Greater Yellownape and Sulphur-breasted Warbler were also among the highlights. By 10 a.m. the crowd’s arrival signaled birding-end and time to move on.
Ba Vì National Park is completely given to mass tourism—many youngsters get up at dawn to see the sunrise, I think you cannot beat them. The truly adventurous might find a path from the summit down on the western mountainside away from the access road. That said, I got a lifer—a Green Cochoa in dense forest at 1100 m (3,610 ft.), plus Great Barbet, Velvet-fronted Nuthatch, many Grey-bellied Tesia, and a Lesser Shortwing. Soaring above the summit was a Mountain Hawk-Eagle. Happy to leave and drive the short distance to Tom Dao National Park. Tom Dao itself is a smaller version of Dalat, but the park has the good sense to ban vehicles! There are twin peaks and an unannounced military presence for those who wander too far. Birds included White-winged Magpie, Rufous-headed Parrotbill, Streak-breasted Scimitar Babbler, Eyebrowed Thrush, White-bellied Erpornis, Common Green Magpie, and Grey Laughingthrush. Tom Dao is the only national park close to Hanoi I could recommend.
Tiring of this tourism, I headed for the mountains of the north and Hoang Lien National Park, barely 30 km (19 mi.) from China. Sapa, the nearest large town, is around 40 km (25 mi.) away. Any doubt about the reason for low bird numbers remaining is quickly answered—the local people carry guns and use them freely within the park. Target here was Beautiful Nuthatch, found in tall, isolated trees above 2000 m (6,560 ft.). Only way up is to walk/climb: the paths are small, muddy, and very steep. I took two guides, and we needed rope and machetes. At this altitude, once the sun drops, it is freezing cold—think Himalayas, not Vietnam. In November, you need gloves, hat, scarf, -10º C sleeping bag, etc. We camped out in rough wooden huts with zero protection. We saw many great birds—abundant Spectacled Barwing, Short-billed Minivet, Yellow-billed Blue Magpie, Slaty-bellied Tesia, Mountain Tailorbird, Grey-headed Parrotbill, Golden Babbler, Black-faced Warbler, Pale-throated Wren-Babbler, and Blue-winged Laughingthrush, Silver-eared Laughingthrush, and Rufous-chinned Laughingthrush. We even had a Eurasian Woodcock! But Beautiful Nuthatch? Not a trace!
MAP AND PHOTOS
BIRD LIST
The following is the list of birds Mark Havenhand noted in Vietnam in November and December 2025. Hyperlinks connect to entries in Craig Brelsford’s Photographic Field Guide to the Birds of China, published in its entirety on this website:
Rufous-throated Partridge Arborophila rufogularis
Bar-backed Partridge A. brunneopectus
Orange-necked Partridge A. davidi
Mountain Bamboo Partridge Bambusicola fytchii
Scaly-breasted Partridge Tropicoperdix chloropus
Indian Peafowl x Green Peafowl Pavo cristatus x muticus
Siamese Fireback Lophura diardi
Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis
White-nest Swiftlet Aerodramus fuciphagus
House Swift Apus nipalensis
Asian Palm Swift Cypsiurus balasiensis
Blyth’s Frogmouth Batrachostomus affinis
Greater Coucal Centropus sinensis
Green-billed Malkoha Phaenicophaeus tristis
Banded Bay Cuckoo Cacomantis sonneratii
Square-tailed Drongo-Cuckoo Surniculus lugubris
Spotted Dove Spilopelia chinensis
Common Emerald Dove Chalcophaps indica
Zebra Dove Geopelia striata
Mountain Imperial Pigeon Ducula badia
Slaty-legged Crake Rallina eurizonoides
Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius
Eurasian Woodcock Scolopax rusticola
Little Cormorant Microcarbo niger
Eastern Cattle Egret Ardea coromanda
Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax
Little Heron Butorides atricapilla
Chinese Pond Heron Ardeola bacchus
Little Egret Egretta garzetta
Osprey Pandion haliaetus
Crested Serpent Eagle Spilornis cheela
Pied Harrier Circus melanoleucos
Crested Goshawk Lophospiza trivirgata
Mountain Hawk-Eagle Nisaetus nipalensis
Changeable Hawk-Eagle N. cirrhatus
Collared Scops Owl Otus lettia
Spot-bellied Eagle-Owl Ketupa nipalensis
Brown Wood Owl Strix leptogrammica
Asian Barred Owlet Glaucidium cuculoides
Collared Owlet Taenioptynx brodiei
Orange-breasted Trogon Harpactes oreskios
Red-headed Trogon H. erythrocephalus
Black-backed Dwarf Kingfisher Ceyx erithaca
White-throated Kingfisher Halcyon smyrnensis
Blue-eared Kingfisher Alcedo meninting
Common Kingfisher A. atthis
Blue-bearded Bee-eater Nyctyornis athertoni
Great Barbet Psilopogon virens
Red-vented Barbet P. lagrandieri
Green-eared Barbet P. faiostrictus
Indochinese Barbet P. annamensis
Necklaced Barbet P. auricularis
Blue-eared Barbet P. cyanotis
Speckled Piculet Picumnus innominatus
White-browed Piculet Sasia ochracea
Black-and-buff Woodpecker Meiglyptes jugularis
Laced Woodpecker Picus vittatus
Red-collared Woodpecker P. rabieri
Heart-spotted Woodpecker Hemicircus canente
Greater Yellownape Chrysophlegma flavinucha
Greater Flameback Chrysocolaptes guttacristatus
Bay Woodpecker Blythipicus pyrrhotis
Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus
Vernal Hanging Parrot Loriculus vernalis
Banded Broadbill Eurylaimus javanicus
Rusty-naped Pitta Hydrornis oatesi
Blue-rumped Pitta H. soror
Blue Pitta H. cyaneus
Bar-bellied Pitta H. elliotii
Blue-winged Pitta Pitta moluccensis
Great Iora Aegithina lafresnayei
Grey-chinned Minivet Pericrocotus solaris
Short-billed Minivet P. brevirostris
Long-tailed Minivet P. ethologus
Scarlet Minivet P. speciosus
Swinhoe’s Minivet P. cantonensis
Oriental Cuckooshrike Coracina javensis
Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrike Hemipus picatus
Black Drongo D. macrocercus
Black-eared Shrike-babbler Pteruthius melanotis
White-browed Shrike-babbler P. aeralatus
Clicking Shrike-babbler P. intermedius
White-bellied Erpornis Erpornis zantholeuca
Maroon Oriole Oriolus traillii
Slender-billed Oriole O. tenuirostris
Ashy Drongo Dicrurus leucophaeus
Bronzed Drongo D. aeneus
Lesser Racket-tailed Drongo D. remifer
Greater Racket-tailed Drongo D. paradiseus
Black-naped Monarch Hypothymis azurea
Blyth’s Paradise Flycatcher Terpsiphone affinis
White-throated Fantail Rhipidura albicollis
Burmese Shrike Lanius collurioides
Brown Shrike L. cristatus
Long-tailed Shrike L. schach
Grey Treepie Dendrocitta formosae
Common Green Magpie Cissa chinensis
Indochinese Green Magpie C. hypoleuca
Red-billed Blue Magpie Urocissa erythroryncha
Yellow-billed Blue Magpie U. flavirostris
White-winged Magpie U. whiteheadi
Eurasian Jay Garrulus glandarius
Large-billed Crow Corvus macrorhynchos
Yellow-bellied Fantail Chelidorhynx hypoxanthus
Grey-headed Canary-flycatcher Culicicapa ceylonensis
Yellow-browed Tit Sylviparus modestus
Sultan Tit Melanochlora sultanea
Cinereous Tit Parus cinereus
Green-backed Tit P. monticolus
Yellow-cheeked Tit Machlolophus spilonotus
Ochraceous Bulbul Alophoixus ochraceus
Puff-throated Bulbul A. pallidus
Grey-eyed Bulbul Iole propinqua
Ashy Bulbul Hemixos flavala
Chestnut Bulbul H. castanonotus
Mountain Bulbul Ixos mcclellandii
Black Bulbul Hypsipetes leucocephalus
Black-crested Bulbul Rubigula flaviventris
Stripe-throated Bulbul Pycnonotus finlaysoni
Flavescent Bulbul P. flavescens
Light-vented Bulbul P. sinensis
Red-whiskered Bulbul P. jocosus
Sooty-headed Bulbul P. aurigaster
Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica
Eastern Red-rumped Swallow Cecropis daurica
Asian House Martin Delichon dasypus
Pygmy Cupwing Pnoepyga pusilla
Manchurian Bush Warbler Horornis canturians
Aberrant Bush Warbler H. flavolivaceus
Broad-billed Warbler Tickellia hodgsoni
Yellow-bellied Warbler Abroscopus superciliaris
Black-faced Warbler A. schisticeps
Rufous-faced Warbler A. albogularis
Pale-footed Bush Warbler Hemitesia pallidipes
Grey-bellied Tesia Tesia cyaniventer
Slaty-bellied Tesia T. olivea
Asian Stubtail Urosphena squameiceps
Black-throated Bushtit Aegithalos concinnus
Yellow-browed Warbler Phylloscopus inornatus
Dusky Warbler P. fuscatus
Eastern Crowned Warbler P. coronatus
White-spectacled Warbler P. intermedius
Grey-cheeked Warbler P. poliogenys
Grey-crowned Warbler P. tephrocephalus
Bianchi’s Warbler P. valentini
Alström’s Warbler P. soror
Two-barred Warbler P. plumbeitarsus
Pale-legged Leaf Warbler P. tenellipes
Arctic Warbler P. borealis
Chestnut-crowned Warbler P. castaniceps
Limestone Leaf Warbler P. calciatilis
Sulphur-breasted Warbler P. ricketti
Kloss’s Leaf Warbler P. ogilviegranti
Davison’s Leaf Warbler P. intensior
Oriental Reed Warbler Acrocephalus orientalis
Russet Bush Warbler Locustella mandelli
Dalat Bush Warbler L. idonea
Hill Prinia Prinia superciliaris
Annam Prinia P. rocki
Grey-breasted Prinia P. hodgsonii
Plain Prinia P. inornata
Rufescent Prinia P. rufescens
Dark-necked Tailorbird Orthotomus atrogularis
Common Tailorbird O. sutorius
Mountain Tailorbird Phyllergates cucullatus
Golden Parrotbill Suthora verreauxi
Short-tailed Parrotbill S. davidiana
Rufous-headed Parrotbill Paradoxornis bakeri
Black-headed Parrotbill P. margaritae
Grey-headed Parrotbill P. gularis
Whiskered Yuhina Yuhina flavicollis
Swinhoe’s White-eye Zosterops simplex
Pale-throated Wren-Babbler Spelaeornis kinneari
Streak-breasted Scimitar Babbler Pomatorhinus ruficollis
White-browed Scimitar Babbler P. schisticeps
Large Scimitar Babbler Erythrogenys hypoleucos
Buff-breasted Babbler Pellorneum tickelli
Puff-throated Babbler P. ruficeps
Abbott’s Babbler Malacocincla abbotti
Scaly-crowned Babbler Malacopteron cinereum
Grey-faced Tit-Babbler Mixornis kelleyi
Pin-striped Tit-Babbler M. gularis
Golden Babbler Cyanoderma chrysaeum
Rufous-capped Babbler C. ruficeps
Grey-throated Babbler Stachyris nigriceps
Spot-necked Babbler S. strialata
Black-crowned Fulvetta Schoeniparus klossi
Black-crowned Fulvetta S. klossi
Rufous-winged Fulvetta S. castaneceps
Annam Limestone Babbler Gypsophila annamensis
Manipur Fulvetta Fulvetta manipurensis
David’s Fulvetta Alcippe davidi
Black-browed Fulvetta A. grotei
Mountain Fulvetta A. peracensis
Vietnamese Cutia Cutia legalleni
Grey-crowned Crocias Laniellus langbianis
Blue-winged Laughingthrush Trochalopteron squamatum
Collared Laughingthrush T. yersini
Silver-eared Laughingthrush T. melanostigma
Black-headed Sibia Heterophasia desgodinsi
Blue-winged Minla Actinodura cyanouroptera
Spectacled Barwing A. ramsayi
Red-billed Leiothrix Leiothrix lutea
Silver-eared Mesia L. argentauris
Red-tailed Minla Minla ignotincta
Rufous-backed Sibia Leioptila annectens
Scarlet-faced Liocichla Liocichla ripponi
Spot-breasted Laughingthrush Garrulax merulinus
White-crested Laughingthrush G. leucolophus
Black-hooded Laughingthrush G. milleti
Grey Laughingthrush G. maesi
Rufous-chinned Laughingthrush Ianthocincla rufogularis
White-cheeked Laughingthrush Pterorhinus vassali
Velvet-fronted Nuthatch Sitta frontalis
Yellow-billed Nuthatch S. solangiae
Chestnut-vented Nuthatch S. nagaensis
Hume’s Treecreeper Certhia manipurensis
Common Myna Acridotheres tristis
Black-collared Starling Gracupica nigricollis
Green Cochoa Cochoa viridis
Dark-sided Thrush Zoothera marginata
White’s Thrush Z. aurea
Scaly Thrush Z. dauma
Siberian Thrush Geokichla sibirica
Orange-headed Thrush G. citrina
Eyebrowed Thrush Turdus obscurus
Oriental Magpie-Robin Copsychus saularis
Asian Brown Flycatcher Muscicapa dauurica
Fujian Niltava Niltava davidi
Large Niltava N. grandis
Verditer Flycatcher Eumyias thalassinus
White-gorgeted Flycatcher Anthipes monileger
Rufous-browed Flycatcher A. solitaris
Hainan Blue Flycatcher Cyornis hainanus
Indochinese Blue Flycatcher C. sumatrensis
White-tailed Robin Myiomela leucura
Siberian Rubythroat Calliope calliope
Slaty-backed Forktail Enicurus schistaceus
Himalayan Shortwing Brachypteryx cruralis
Lesser Shortwing B. leucophris
Siberian Blue Robin Larvivora cyane
Rufous-tailed Robin L. sibilans
Snowy-browed Flycatcher Ficedula hyperythra
Mugimaki Flycatcher F. mugimaki
Rufous-gorgeted Flycatcher F. strophiata
Little Pied Flycatcher F. westermanni
Taiga Flycatcher F. albicilla
Red-flanked Bluetail Tarsiger cyanurus
Himalayan Bluetail T. rufilatus
Plumbeous Water Redstart Phoenicurus fuliginosus
White-throated Rock Thrush Monticola gularis
Chestnut-bellied Rock Thrush M. rufiventris
Grey Bush Chat Saxicola ferreus
Amur Stonechat S. stejnegeri
Orange-bellied Leafbird Chloropsis hardwickii
Golden-fronted Leafbird C. aurifrons
Blue-winged Leafbird C. moluccensis
Yellow-bellied Flowerpecker Pachyglossa melanozantha
Thick-billed Flowerpecker P. agilis
Plain Flowerpecker Dicaeum minullum
Fire-breasted Flowerpecker D. ignipectus
Scarlet-backed Flowerpecker D. cruentatum
Ruby-cheeked Sunbird Chalcoparia singalensis
Van Hasselt’s Sunbird Leptocoma brasiliana
Purple-naped Spiderhunter Kurochkinegramma hypogrammicum
Little Spiderhunter Arachnothera longirostra
Streaked Spiderhunter A. magna
Mrs. Gould’s Sunbird Aethopyga gouldiae
Green-tailed Sunbird A. nipalensis
Fork-tailed Sunbird A. christinae
Black-throated Sunbird A. saturata
Crimson Sunbird A. siparaja
Ornate Sunbird Cinnyris ornatus
House Sparrow Passer domesticus
Eurasian Tree Sparrow P. montanus
Scaly-breasted Munia Lonchura punctulata
White-rumped Munia L. striata
Olive-backed Pipit Anthus hodgsoni
Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea
White Wagtail M. alba
Vietnamese Greenfinch Chloris monguilloti
Red Crossbill Loxia curvirostra
BIRDING SOUTH CHINA
The avifauna of Vietnam is familiar to birders who have visited the provinces of neighboring south China, particularly Yunnan, Guangxi, and Hainan. Read our posts below. Want a tour to these parts of China—or anywhere in China? shanghaibirding.com partners with the best bird guides in the country. Write us at tours@shanghaibirding.com.
• Northern Southeast Asia Specialties Near the Border of Guangxi and Vietnam: In the picturesque karst-country village of Longheng, Guangxi, birders note Nonggang Babbler, tick White-winged Magpie, and discover south China favorites Red-headed Trogon and Long-tailed Broadbill.
• Sino-Vietnamese Species on China’s Hainan Island: shanghaibirding.com founder Craig Brelsford spent most of his 28-day expedition at Jianfengling in southern Hainan. There Brelsford found Ratchet-tailed Treepie and Yellow-billed Nuthatch, species more common in Vietnam and in China found only on Hainan. Brelsford also noted 26 species or subspecies endemic to Hainan, among them Hainan Silver Pheasant, Hainan Peacock-Pheasant, Hainan Partridge, and Hainan Leaf Warbler.
• Update on Jianfengling, Hainan, China’s Ideal Winter Birding Spot: Jianfengling is easy to reach, has hotels that accept foreigners, grants freedom to roam, and offers plenty of endemic species and subspecies and wintering birds. Mark Havenhand had Hainan Laughingthrush and Rufous-cheeked Laughingthrush, and the tropical mountain forests held Green-billed Malkoha and Eyebrowed Wren-Babbler.
• The shanghaibirding.com Birding in Yunnan Index: Start here for a complete listing of our posts on China’s richest birding province, which borders Vietnam. Yunnan is smaller than the U.S. state of California but has more species of bird (more than 900) than the United States and Canada. Yunnan accounts for a little more than 4 percent of the land area of China, but almost two-thirds of China’s species of bird have been recorded there.
In addition to Hainan, Yunnan, and our core area of Shanghai, shanghaibirding.com has extensive coverage of
Fujian
Northeast China
Qinghai
Sichuan
Xinjiang
Featured photo: Among the birds of Vietnam are species that occur in neighboring south China. Clockwise from L: Red-headed Trogon, Black-headed Sibia, Velvet-fronted Nuthatch, Puff-throated Babbler, and Burmese Shrike. All photographed in Yunnan by shanghaibirding.com founder Craig Brelsford except Red-headed Trogon, photographed in Hainan.
